Well after Paris Couture Week wrapped up on Wednesday (July 3) in Paris, Fendi kept the festivities going the next day, with an exceptional runway presentation at the Temple of Venus, on Rome’s Palatine Hill.
The iconic fashion house took the opportunity to pay tribute to Karl Lagerfeld, who passed away in February, but also to its native city of Rome, hosting its guests in a historical location.
The evening was Silvia Venturini Fendi’s occasion to pay homage to the late, great German couturier in her way, through a number of elements subtly inserted throughout the Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, such as draped dresses and geometric necklines.
During the show, no less than 54 looks were presented, the same number as the years of Lagerfeld’s tenure at the luxury house.
Christened “The Dawn of Romanity”, the grandiose show also honoured the Eternal City, its architecture, and the allure of the Roman woman – three sources of inspiration that marked the collection’s pieces, which are embodied by an omnipresence of marble prints, patterns evoking iconic Roman locations, strong shoulders, sheer panels and sexy openwork, all steeped in extreme elegance.
The palette was also inspired by Rome’s minerals such as citrine, jade, rose quartz, and chalcedony, combined with that utmost expression of the city’s power and light – gold.
Some of the a-list guests in attendance at the once-in-a-lifetime show included Zendaya, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Chiara Ferragni, Susan Sarandon, Jason Momoa, Zoey Deutch, and Isabella Ferrari. – AFP Relaxnews
The long shadow of Karl Lagerfeld hung over Chanel’s first Paris haute couture collection without the Kaiser (as he was commonly known as), which was held on July 3 in Paris.
His successor and former right-hand woman Virginie Viard – who admitted that she spent more time with him than any other person – recreated one of the legendary designer’s libraries inside the Grand Palais, where Lagerfeld staged his shows.
The bibliophile – who died in February aged 85 – is estimated to have owned up to 350,000 books. In a rotunda worthy of the British Library, Viard sent out a sleeker, more restrained and more classically Chanel collection than the master’s final few.
Nods to Karl were everywhere from the models wearing their hair in ponytails echoing his white powdered mane, to a series of dresses adorned with Lagerfeld’s signature starched collars and cuffs.
The brand appeared to be putting Lagerfeld’s legacy on the same footing as the French house’s founder Coco Chanel. That despite the German once admitting that Coco Chanel would have hated what he did.
Two-Tone Bowed Shoes
The two-tone bowed shoes evoked the court dandies of Lagerfeld’s favourite century, the 18th, with patent slippers adding another touch of boudoir glamour. The discreet Viard – who did not talk to reporters – appeared briefly on the first floor of the set at the end to acknowledge the applause.
She did, however, put her own mark on the clothes. A four-pocket belted trouser suit and coat spoke of a purer less flashy marriage of street style and couture in the future, as did some gorgeous retro silk bathrobe and pyjama pants combos.
A run of high-line flared easy trousers ran through the collection, with a battalion of pencil skirts and dresses, often slit at the back. White buttons and glasses were also prominent as were all the Chanel standards of tweeds and sparkling highly-embroidered sequined pieces.
On the day when Australian arachnologists named a new spider species Jotus karllagerfeldi for its resemblance to the German designer’s trademark high kent collars and black sunglasses, Viard also indulged Lagerfeld’s love of challengingly vivid colours.
Viard Makes Her Mark
Kaia Gerber, the daughter of supermodel Cindy Crawford, wore an almost acid tangerine thigh-length two-piece suit, whose shoulders were decked with a frosting of white embroidered flowers and a ruff.
But overall Viard was more sobre and subtle than the sometimes brash designs Lagerfeld would dash off. Her front row celebrities led by Australian actress Margot Robbie and French star Isabelle Huppert seemed to have read the runes, wearing black and grey.
Viard saved her one revolutionary act for the end. To the strains of the “I just want to be a woman” refrain of Portishead’s song Glory Box, she did away with the wedding dress finale that has traditionally closed Chanel haute couture shows. – AFP
After hosting its round of menswear shows for the Spring/Summer 2020 season, Paris is gearing up for the next edition of its traditional and prestigious haute couture fashion week, running June 30 to July 4.
Some of the world’s biggest fashion houses are set to present their Autumn/Winter 2019 couture collections in exceptional locations in and around the city, while jewellery houses will showcase their latest creations.
Virginie Viard’s First Couture Collection For Chanel
Although this isn’t Chanel’s first collection designed entirely by Virginie Viard (she also designed the label’s latest Cruise collection), it will be her first solo haute-couture offering for the label.
As a result, all eyes will inevitably be on the Chanel show, slated for July 2, showcasing the couture creations from the legendary Karl Lagerfeld’s successor.
Although the French fashion designer worked closely with the late Karl Lagerfeld, her own personal touch is expected to shine through, as much in the collection’s designs as in the transformation of the Grand Palais – a particular highlight of the label’s shows.
In any case, the fashion world is likely to be out in force to witness this new era dawning at Chanel.
A New Chapter At Schiaparelli
After officially confirming the departure of Bertrand Guyon, Schiaparelli named Daniel Roseberry as creative director of all its collections in April.
The 33-year-old designer, who worked alongside Thom Browne for over a decade, is now set to present his debut haute-couture collection for the historic fashion house.
The show will open day two at Paris haute-couture week, July 1. Daniel Roseberry is expected to delve into the Schiaparelli archive to draw on the fashion house’s heritage, while also bringing a more personal, modern touch – something the designer hinted at on the day of his nomination.
“It is my great honor and my joy to pick up where Mme. Schiaparelli left off some 85 years ago,” Roseberry said in a statement published on Instagram.
He added: “It is my privilege to collaborate with the astonishing talents of the atelier and in the traditions of haute couture to carry the legend and myth of this storied house into the future.”
Fendi Pays Tribute To Karl Lagerfeld
Rather than showing in Paris, the Italian fashion house will be presenting its latest haute couture collection at Rome’s Palatine Hill, a history-rich location chosen in honour of Karl Lagerfeld, who died February 19, while also evoking the luxury fashion brand’s roots.
Come July 4, hundreds of specially selected guests will discover the label’s “The Dawn of Romanity” collection, comprising 54 looks, nodding to the number of years the designer spent at the fashion house.
All in all, it promises to be a grandiose and emotional show, watched closely by the fashion world and the wider public.
This will be the second tribute event staged to honour Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel, Fendi and the Karl Lagerfeld brand previously brought together some 2,500 people, June 20, to celebrate the life and work of the legendary German designer and photographer. – AFP Relaxnews
Certain creations presented at Paris couture week are destined to be worn by a handful of lucky women at prestigious red carpet events, such as the Oscars, Golden Globes and Cannes Film Festival.
This season, designers once again showed off some incredible gowns that are sure to be a hit with the red carpet crowd.
Here’s a look at some of the haute couture gowns we’re likely to see at some of the world’s most prestigious events. – AFP Relaxnews
Ronald Van Der Kemp
With volume, elegance and a bold motif, this Ronald Van Der Kemp silhouette has every chance of making a red carpet appearance at a glamorous event.
Schiaparelli’s imposing tulle ball gown with intricate embroideries wouldn’t look out of place on the Oscars red carpet.
With its pastel hue and eye-catching shimmer, this chic, modern and subtly sexy gown by Georges Hobeika could easily be imagined on the red carpet of an awards ceremony or at the Cannes Film Festival.
The seeming simplicity of this Dior gown and the subtlety of its details make for a rare breed of elegance. It’s a hot contender for the Oscars red carpet.
Watch out for this chic, sophisticated Chanel creation bringing a rock ‘n’ roll twist to the red carpet. It could be a perfect fit for one of the brand’s ambassadors, Kristen Stewart, for example.
This Alexis Mabille creation offers an original take on traditional glamour with a part-dress, part-semi-sheer-catsuit combination. Watch out for it on the red carpet.
This Elie Saab gown appears to have been sculpted directly on its model. It stands out with its rich colour and refined style.
Viktor & Rolf
This white Viktor & Rolf ball gown mixes elegance with audacity with its eccentric cutouts.
Always a popular choice on the red carpet, Zuhair Murad showed several creations to watch out for, including this intricately embellished mini-dress.
Chanel, Alexis Mabille, Giorgio Armani and Alexandre Vauthier all showed their Autumn/Winter 2018 haute couture collections last week in Paris. Once again there was unbridled femininity at the forefront of fashion, with fluid dresses setting movement free and – despite the refined mood of most silhouettes – a handful of details inspired by the sportswear world.
Here’s a look at some of the highlights from these brands at Paris Haute Couture week. – AFP Relaxnews
From cuts and colours to fabrics, everything about the Giorgio Armani show was elegant, refined and highly feminine.
Shades of gray and slits – on skirts and sleeves – stole the show at Chanel, amid a set evoking the Institut de France, home to the Academie Francaise.
Alexis Mabille brought a breath of fresh air to haute couture week as models breezed down the runway in gowns in a variety of bright colours, channeling sensuality and sophistication.
Agatha Christie and Alfred Hitchcock inspired Julien Fournie’s ‘Premier Crime’ collection, which brought draping and asymmetrical lines to the runway with silhouettes revealing little in the way of flesh.
Ulyana Sergeenko channeled a fresh, understated femininity and a confident feeling of freedom, with silhouettes that seemed to span the moments in a woman’s day.
- Julien Fournie.
- Ulyana Sergeenko.
Alexandre Vauthier showed an elegant and sensual collection with lots of short dresses and slits, as well as animal-print creations for a bolder look.
Volumes, frills and pastel shades were popular on the Xuan runway, with a timeless collection of the utmost lightness.
- Alexandre Vauthier.